Saturday, 2 April 2016

Portside Take Two (and Three)

As promised, I am back to report on my second and third versions of the Portside Travel Set by Grainline Studio. As I mentioned in the post for the first version, there are a number of problems with the pattern, but don't let that deter you from picking it up. Even with those wee mistakes, it is easy enough to fix up as you go to make a beautiful version for yourself.
I decided to make my sister and her boyfriend *almost* matching versions for Christmas. Yes, Christmas 2015. Yes, I just finished these last weekend. Shut up.
I went with some home dec fabric from my local Fabricland. I wanted something that was classic and that would suit both of them, hence settling on the grey and plaid.
I tried to match the plaid as much as I could, cutting everything extra carefully. I think it turned out quite well. For Darren's version, I omitted the zipper pulls. I figured that would be the best way for them to distinguish between the bags from the outside.
I did the same thing for my previous bag in terms of using the self fabric in place of the webbing when attached to the bag directly. I didn't realize how good of a choice this was at first...
...as my machine tried to eat the webbing and thread for the long strap. I bought my webbing from AGraffSupplies on Etsy. I fussed with it multiple times, trying different needles, threads, settings, etc., and ended up stitching these mofos by hand. Not really worth the extra time in my opinion, but it does make it look "store bought"...in a good way.
I was careful not to stitch the side pockets down like last time. The only other change I made was to the interfacing layout. I was sure to interface everything on the outer shell of the bag with the exception of the pockets and straps. Again, as mentioned previously, the directions on the pattern piece do not say to cut out interfacing for a few pieces that should be interfaced, hence my mentioning this.

Here's Jamie's version with the zipper pulls:
I omitted the pulls on Shanen's version (v.1), but seeing them on Jamie's, I think I actually rather like the subtle touch they add to the bag. For the leather, I used some scraps off a beaten up leather jacket I bought at the thrift store with sewing use in mind.
Again, I used the double tabbed zipper. I wish it were metal, but I like that you can put a lock on it when travelling.


I added a half inch to the top contrast pattern piece of the pouch and everything lined up MUCH better than previous versions. I suggest you do the same.
Other than that, the only change I made was to Jamie's because the zipper I bought wouldn't accommodate the wide leather tabs. So I improvised.
Now, you are probably thinking, That's it? I mean you did say *almost* the same, but some zipper tabs? Really? Well, no, that it not the only thing that makes these *almost* different.

That's right, different linings! Eeeee! I had SO much fun picking out the lining fabrics. Darren's fabric was picked up in Hamilton by Shanen, who knew I was looking to buy this Force Awakens fabric. The dog fabric was a gift from a co-worker last year that I had been saving up to make something special with.
 I made some changes to the dopp kitt that helped out a lot. First, and most importantly, I took the top piece of the dopp kitt (pattern piece 14), and added a half inch to the height and one inch to the length. Adding the extra height helped the two top pieces and zip line up with the side pieces MUCH better.
 Adding to the width helped accommodate my zipper a bit better, but this time the sides, instead of coming up short, were a bit too long, when lined up with the front and back pieces. I also had a bit of weird stretching going on, though, so this may not have helped that. Easy fix, though, as I just had to trim off a bit of the bottom.

Additionally, I interfaced the outer front pocket pieces, but not the lining piece. Again, directions weren't super clear on this when looking at pattern piece cutting directions, pictures in the instructions, and cutting layout within the instructions, so I made my own mind up and just stuck with it. I also used the lining fabric for the lining piece instead of the contrast fabric as asked. I like it better this way.




Overall, I am just as pleased, if not more so, than the first version I made. Things lined up better, the interfacing was where it should be, and it looks really professional. It took ages (mostly cutting everything out so it matched up), but it was well worth it. I have a fourth one sitting upstairs for Trev, but there is no rush on that one, so I get to take a break with some selfish sewing for the next little while! My sewjo is high and I am excited about what I will get to put together next, as I begin working through my fabric stash once and for all.
I know I've asked before, but have you made the Portside? What do you think about the changes I mentioned? Did you have as much fun picking out fabrics as I did? Please share! :)

{Celebrate}

Monday, 8 February 2016

Interludes

After finishing up the semester in a teaching job that wasn't for me last Friday, I suddenly found myself with a lot more free time on my hands. I wanted to actually spend time with Trev but was itching to do something creative. We all know how easy it is to spend time with someone who is using a sewing machine (*ahem*, not), so after seeing this article on contemporary embroidery, being rather inspired by Sarah K. Benning, and spending a bit of time on Pinterest collecting, I thought that this was a great way to catch up on The Fall with Trev while still doing something creative.

Overall, I have to say I'm pretty damn pleased with how it turned out. More to come in the near future!

Tuesday, 26 January 2016

Pattern Review: Portside

As I mentioned in my last post, after making the Portside Travel Set, I wanted to do a full, proper review of the pattern. I know that it has been out for a while, but other than, as Lauren put it, the odd google review that mentions the issues (and by odd I mean one), I found some problems that I wish I had known about in more detail prior to diving in.

First--Look at how pro this looks!
I am so happy with how the set looks overall. This is the first time I've tackled something so different from what I normally sew, and, although it took forever (two weeks here and there over the holidays, not really forever), I think I rather enjoyed making this.
Instead of cotton webbing, I bought extra self fabric and used that to make the straps. For the most part, this worked quite well. I used a navy cotton/poly twill for the self, and some home dec poly (I think) for the contrast. All I did was cut long strips of fabric 6" wide, folded it in half to the centre, then in half again and top stitched (like the free Bag-Making Basics Craftsy tote).
If you plan on using fabric instead of webbing, you'll probably find, like me, all the pieces that attach directly to the bag are pretty easy to sew through with a little bit of patience, even with the extra layers that you need to go through as a result.
 Sewing through the layers on the detachable strap, however, was frustrating. My machine was less than pleased. Not my best work. I think for my next three bags (in the works), I will suck it up and buy the webbing for that part anyway just to save myself the curse words. Also: I know a lot of people were confused about using the D-rings as sliders, but I found that Jen's instructions on that part were very clear. My strap came together in about a minute (minus the actual sewing).
I bought a 22" purse zipper, mainly because Fabricland didn't carry a 21" one and I didn't want to come up short. Well, I worried for nothing because the zipper was way too long. I feel like I may have been able to get away with a 20" zip, but I will have to test that in future versions, so don't get mad at me if you try and you do come up short. Unfortunately, I've already purchased and washed all my zips for the next three, so I'll just have to shortened the zips like I did this one. Mind you, I rather like the look of the double zipper, I have to say. I thought it would be great way to stick a travel lock on it if you were to bring it travelling.
SPOILER ALERT: I accidentally sewed one of the front pockets closed. Whoops.
I used a cute home dec cotton polka dot as the lining fabric. It was a little lighter weight than the other fabrics. I honestly don't think that you need a heavy home dec weight fabric for the lining. I know it would stand up better to wear and tear, but unless you are using this everyday, I think it would be fine just to use whatever if the mood struck. I think I am partly saying this because I can just picture future versions of this with Spoonflower throwing up all over the inside. :)
Because I sewed the outside pocket shut, I figured I'd put a little wee one inside. BTW, it was my own fault--not Jen's--that I sewed it shut. Don't sew too late at night or when you are tired....
Overall, the duffel bag came out relatively well. My friend (who received this) claims that she could probably squeeze herself into it if she were a contortionist, so it is pretty roomy.

The only other thing is that I struggled with figuring out how to best sew the bottom of the bag, I didn't quite understand what was meant by the instructions on that and would have appreciated a picture or video for that part. It doesn't look great, but it is the bottom of the bag so deal with it.

A minor issue I had with the duffel is that some of the pattern pieces are improperly labelled. Some of the pieces don't say to cut out any interfacing, but really, when you look at the interfacing layout, you are supposed to (I think it was the bag end pieces that I came across this problem). So I would suggest double checking this as you are cutting out. I ended up having to iron the interfacing on after I had already sewn on the side straps, so that's kind of a bummer. And along with this, there is no interfacing guide like with Grainline's other patterns, so I think that would have been helpful here.

The pouch, having had plenty of previous experience, came together super quick. The zipper was the right size, thankfully. I did, however, notice that this pouch, as with my others, was a touch short when lining up the front and back. Not a huge deal because it is just two rectangles, but that is something to keep in mind when making yours. For my next versions, I may extend the top contrast piece by a half inch or so just so it comes out properly.

Now.....the dopp kitt...
I really feel like this needs some major tweaking. Like Lauren said, nothing matched up right. Okay, not *nothing*, but enough to make this a bit frustrating. 
It seems that the top pieces that attach to the zipper don't take into account the seam allowance as both of the self fabric sides had to be trimmed by about a half inch on each side. This resulted in a narrower bag. This also mean trimming an inch off the bottom piece. 

Maybe I'm a whiny baby, but the handle was too hard to turn with the home dec fabric so I just made my own in the same way I made my self fabric straps. That was an easy fix though.

As well, my seams did not line up at all and when attaching the top/side to the front and back pieces, they also ran a bit short. This, in conjunction with my zippers being way too big again, makes me think that maybe the dopp kit top was drafted but without the seam allowance by mistake? Something I'll try for the next ones is adding the extra seam allowance and seeing if that fixes the problem.

Also: worth mentioning that when attaching the top/sides to the front and back pieces, it is much easier when you pre-notch the fabric a bit to help ease everything together, especially when working with such thick and heavily-interfaced fabric. The curves came out much better.
Another minor, easily fixable problem is that in step 23, the picture shows an interfaced piece ten, though the pattern piece is not supposed to be interfaced. I thought that I had done something wrong and so I cut out another piece and interfaced it, which resulted in a pretty stiff/thick front. Again, this is being nit-picky, but it was my first bag and I just assumed I had misread something and forgot to cut out the extra piece. If I had gone back to look at the cutting layout, I would have realized I was wrong. The zipper was a bitch to sew on the top part of the front pocket, but that also has a lot to do with the state of my sewing machine....she could use a tune up.
Again, the inside is lined and looks great. Make sure you don't slip stitch the lining too close or it will keep getting caught in the zip (sorry Shanen!). Again, sewing the bottom of the bag was tricky, but it looks fine and it is the bottom so meh.

Overall, despite these issues I'm pretty damn pleased with how this turned out and I'm looking forward to making the next few Portsides. I really do recommend the pattern, the finished product looks freaking amazing if I do say so, and if you make it as a gift, everyone will be impressed that you made it (for reals). I just wish I had known about the aforementioned issues beforehand, is all. I've also started to think about how I might want to make one for myself eventually and what I'd like that to look like (Do I go colourful or classic? So hard to choose!).

Have you made the Portside Travel Set, or do you plan to? Let me know if you've encountered the same problems I have or let me know if it is just my inept bag sewing abilities that caused these problems.

Have a great rest of the week! :)